No matter what kind of skater you are, odds are that you won’t be happy unless your dancing surface has the right texture and shape for your particular routine. Whether you haunt the streets or the skate park, dominate the quarter-pipe or the curb, choosing a deck that suits your needs will take a combination of trial-and-error, observation, and setting priorities for your skating.

The skateboard deck underwent a major design revolution when Richard Stevenson patented the concave structure in 1973, introducing front and rear kicks while opening a whole world of possibilities to the previously flat board. Today “concave” has become a technical noun in the glossary of the sport, despite appearing as adjective in standard dictionaries. The “concave” of your deck refers to the variance between kicks and the flat middle of your board. A shallower concave is choice for beginners, who will find a flatter board easier to control, whereas a deep spoon is favored by advanced trick skaters.

If you want an independent look with a professional feel, there are a number of companies that will accommodate skateboard artists who wish to add their own design to a custom-built skateboard deck. You can send in your design and order just one, though this can be expensive and the cost per unit goes down dramatically when you order in bulk.

Opportunities exist aplenty for a talented graphic artist in the skateboard world. One option would be to offer freelance skateboard deck design services. Of course, if you feel you’ve got what it takes, you can submit your design to the variety of deck and logo contests sponsored by bigger, already established skate companies. Winning decks can be released in a limited edition artist series, and sometimes a talented artist even lands a day job as a salaried designer.

Quality skateboard decks are made from virgin Canadian Maple, still the lumber of choice for skateboard bases. The standard deck is compiled from at least seven ply of lumber for strength. For traction, you’ll need a layer of grip tape, which comes stock with many decks, although applying your own gives you more control over the style and texture of your board. Blank decks are like canvases, and once you get the habit of installing rare graphics via the grip tape, you’ll never go back to a stock deck again.

On the other hand, maybe having a signature model from your favorite pro will lend you the confidence you need to mount that challenging half-pipe or take on that stairwell with the inviting handrail. In that case, you’ll probably pay a little extra for a pro edition or team model-but maybe the extra inspiration will be worth it.

Your skateboard deck is more than just the wood mounted to the two trucks; it’s the essence of your board, the platform for your performance, your personal billboard. Brand loyalties, personal philosophies, political statements and musical preferences are all expressed on the colorful decks of today’s skater. Making it your own creation can be half the fun.

Although skateboard trucks vary in style and design, there are certain universal characteristics to this part of the skateboard. The truck is the T-shaped metal assembly that connects your wheels to the deck. Trucks are composed of many highly specialized parts, including the baseplate, which is bolted to the underside of the deck with the king pin, and used to hold the hangar in place.

The king pin which runs through the gut of the truck. Adjusting the axle nut on the end of the king pin can lend more to control to your steering; tightening it will keep your board on the straight and narrow for downhill skating, whereas loosening the nut lets you nudge into your turns without leaning so far. The kingpin runs through rubber rings called bushings, which provide the flexibility to the truck’s mount. Without the bushings, navigating the board would be nearly impossible.

Because skateboarding is the most widespread of all sports which functions in the absence of a regulatory body governing the specifications of the primary equipment, the truck wheel bearing deck parts can be a highly varied combination of tolerances and materials.

Your skateboard truck and wheel bearing deck parts support all of your weight and keep your deck connected to your wheels. Any time you grind, you are wearing down your trucks a little bit. Whether you buy the pre-assembled complete skateboards from your local sport supply store, or go to great lengths to obtain special parts for your individual style of trick skating, you will need to maintain your trucks, and, at some point, you will need to replace them.

High intensity grinders may find themselves replacing their truck on a nearly monthly basis. The hangar is the large metal semi-triangular piece which houses and fixes the axle in place. Your hanger must be the same brand as your baseplate, as these parts are nonstandard and therefore not inter compatible.

Your command and control of the board, especially during turns and tricks, will rely heavily on the quality, durability and flexibility of your truck parts. There are a few subtle but important differences to consider when selecting your skateboard’s truck and wheel bearing deck parts. Typically, you want your trucks to nearly span the width of your board, ending about a quarter inch from the sides of your deck.

The height of your trucks is also crucial. If your wheels are too tall in comparison to your trucks, you run the risk of wheelbite; your wheel jamming up against the underside of your deck during lands or sharp turns and resulting in painful face plants, something you definitely want to avoid.

Another safety precaution that you hardcore thrashers and jump-artists need to keep in mind when assembling your skateboard truck’s wheel bearing parts is the strength and condition of their axles.

After hard-core use, the end of the axle can get bent or begin to slip. This causes you to ride off balance stressing your wheels. If the axle slips to the side, your wheel on that side will loosen and the opposing wheel will tighten up.